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Shopping in
Istanbul is often a huge part of any visit, and the city’s famous
historical bazaars offer a wonderful insight into city life. Whether
shopping for carpets, spices, vegetables or clothes, the process of
making your purchase is likely to be enhanced by the atmosphere of
wandering through the crowded stalls - and of course haggling. As
usual when bargaining with persuasive shop owners, have an idea of a
good price before you start.
GRAND BAZAAR
The oldest and
biggest closed bazaar in the world, also known as the Grand Bazaar,
has around 4000 shops and over 60 alleyway, covering a huge labyrinth
in the city centre. The original two structures, covered with a series
of domes and remains of the 15th century walls, became a shopping area
by covering the surrounding streets and adding to it over the
following centuries. In Ottoman times this was the centre of trading,
and a vital area of town. The Sandal Bedesten was added during
Suleyman’s reign, to cope with the rising trade in fabrics, during the
16th century.
Traditionally the more valuable goods
were in the old central area, called Ic Bedesten, because it was more
secure. As quite typical of the area, most streets are laid out and
devoted to a particular trade, for example gold on Kuyumcular Caddesi,
leather on Bodrum Han, and shoes on Kavaflar Sokak. But the trade has
also spilled out onto the surrounding streets, and it is very common
to see Russian traders buying up huge sacks of leather jackets or
shoes outside the main entrance. Even the streets leading to the
Golden Horn are lined with outdoor stalls, which have traditionally
been controlled by strict trading laws to reduce competition between
traders.
Apart from the usual shops selling clothes, textiles, jewellry and
carpets, there are small workshops where craftsmen cast and beat
silver or brass, in a skilled trade handed down through the
generations. If all that shopping, bargaining and fending off
persuasive salesmen is a little too tiring, there are also traditional
cafes dotted inside the bazaar in which to relax, eat and sip tea.
There are also money-changing booths inside and out. It is slightly
less crowded during weekdays, as most locals shop at weekends.
EGYPTIAN BAZAAR
Also known as the Spice
Market, this is Istanbul’s second bazaar, constructed in the same
complex as Yeni Camii (or New Mosque). There are six gates, which make
it an attractive exterior. The L-shaped market, together with the
mosque, were built for the mother of Mehmet IV, a powerful woman who
ruled the harem and, some would say, much of the empire.
Although no longer the prime spice trading area of the city, there is
still the aroma of ginger, cardamom, pepper and saffron from the piles
of spices sold from many stalls. These days it is also popular for
great varieties of lokum (turkish delight), small souvenirs, flavoured
teas and local delicacies – including the dubious sounding “Turkish
Viagra”. Locals come here to shop for bed linen and towels, as well as
for fruit and vegetables, coffee, clothes, pots and pans in the
surrounding cramped backstreets. Outside the market on the Galata
Bridge end, is this is the best place to choose olives from huge
barrels, and many varieties of beyaz penir (white cheese).
COPPER SMITHS BAZAAR
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Lesser known and smaller, but
nonetheless just as interesting is this market in Beyazit, under
the north and east walls of Istanbul University. Copper is beaten
and produced into many shapes, sizes and forms, and shops sell
cauldrons, saucepans, buckets, candlesticks and the like.
FLEA MARKETS
Away from the classical, historical
markets which have always attracted tourists, there are many flea
and street markets around the city, usually consisting of streets
of junk shops. As usual, getting a real quality bargain is often
down to luck, but it is still an interesting way to shop .
Cukurcuma Sokak is the central point
of streets of shops selling old wooden furniture, antiques, and
books, near the Galatasaray Hamam off Istiklal Caddesi. Uskudar’s
Bit Pazari is on Buyuk Hama Sokak, and in Kadikoy, Ozelli Sokak
sells mainly furniture. Horhor market, behind Aksaray mosque, is
famous for antiques, selling rare Ottoman furniture. The Entel, or
Intellectual Market in Ortakoy sells arts, craft and antiques,
music cassettes and books, and is open every Sunday and usually
very crowded. Besiktas Pazar is open every Sunday, a warren of
streets near Sair Nedim Caddesi, sells bargain clothes. Terkoz
Cikmaz, next to the Pasabahce glass store off Istiklal Caddesi,
has bargain designer clothes, factory seconds or overruns from
France, England and Germany at rock-bottom prices. Sahaflar
Carsisi is near a flea market, and specialises in second hand
books
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